5-Eastern Pyrenees

Dear Friends,
 
Ah France! We've been here several times before on a bike: twice in the north, and once down the west coast. So this is  our first visit to the south. The French people have what we think is an undeserved bad reputation for attitude toward American tourists. We've  never been snubbed. Indeed, this trip has reminded us of the welcome and the friendly assistance French people offer to visitors. Is it because  we are on a bike? Perhaps. We've also had no trouble enjoying eating and drinking here. To dine on cheese, bread, and wine leaves little to be desired. More about food later.
 
Jogging us out of any sentimental reverie about traveling in France was the challenge of getting over the far eastern terrain of the  Pyrenees Mountains. They were thankfully not snow-covered, as were the  peaks not far to the west, but they did include a fez long steady  climbs. There was one tunnel, 1/2 km. in length and well-lighted. The smooth and not too steep downhills are always a wonderful reward for  grueling work on the uphill side.
 
Every town and village offers something of interest: a picturesque view, a fortress, a medieval church, a Roman wall, or a market. We do  stop to savor such sites, but not all of them, nor do we remember each  one unless we take notes and photos.
So once in a while some odd personal event gives a tzist to a visit to some city or another. Perpignon was an example. Nice cathedral and  pleasant coffee by the canal. But the little tucked-away municipal  campsite was memorable. Only tenters were allowed in the non-descript  central grassy section. The outer ring was taken with long-term small caravans, people working in the city for a while, or just those opting  for a modest qnd inexpensive residence. Next to us was a strange man  living in a small tent with a sign on it (which we could not read). The  first odd behavior was a loud, extensive reprimand of his pqtient and  loyal dog, for no reason that we could descern. A little later the man  started yelling and gesticulating, at no one in particular. The manager  and residents tried in vain to auiet him down. By this time we think he was drunk. That plus his obvious mental lack of balance put him pretty  much out of control. One resident even tried beating him up, also to no avail. It was no doubt not the first time for this scenario. Finally the man left for a while, and we were asleep by the time he returned. The  other people in the campsite were all friendly and helpful. They had  auite a challenge on their hands. So ze tourists see the ups and dozns  of the everyday life of people we encounter so briefly.
 
The next day we traveled on, which is our typical pattern. We have fun watching the landscape change. Now that we've turned inland, we could see the Pyrenees from a different side.
 
I'll need to finish this story later, as I'm running out of time on this computer.
 
Love, Ellen & Lowell